Saturday 27th August

We left Treburden yesterday, having been there for three `much too windy’ days - just our luck to get stuck in the most expensive marina that we have visited so far! So we have again headed westwards, calling in the estuary of Morlaix overnight, then on to L’Aberwrach today. We came through a narrow channel inside the Isles de Batz - a real test of navigation skills!!! Likewise entering this estuary…sailing on the English east coast is all about mud and shallow water…so what, if there is only 3 metres…but here, you can be in 30 metres but with waves crashing onto jagged rocks all around you…concentration is called for [and Paul talking to the chart plotter!!] - see photos on www.msnusers.com/sueonthesea Then, as the book says, we felt `the first stirrings of the Atlantic swell’ as we get nearer to Biscay.
Funny how some things make you so aware that you are in France, in fact Brittany in particular, and away from much of our American influence….like…
…only being able to buy crepes at the beach! No burgers and chips, just a pleasant lady in a little kiosk cooking pancakes all day - 1 euro for crepe with butter and sugar.
…going to a supermarket, sort of normal co-op size, and being told that they have run out of carrier bags - really!! No bags!! Luckily I had my purple shopping trolley with me, so I get the last laugh there then!!
…going to another supermarket, sort of Happy Shopper size, where there was one shopping trolley!! ONE!!??!! I quickly took it and proceeded down the first aisle only to have `monsieur’ come and tell me that I couldn’t use it because the rows were too narrow - so he took it away from me and gave me a basket!! But it was a proper supermarket because there was a trolley….???
The wind continues to try its best to frustrate us… too much, not enough, wrong direction…Today was the `not enough’ variety. It was also quite cool and then poured with rain just as we arrived at the marina. But it’s all calm now. We have just returned from walking Dom on the beach…we then climbed up to view point from where we could look out across the estuary, see all the little rocky outcrops, small islands and buoys and lighthouses flashing in the distance. Then stood chatting to a couple from Ireland…yes, life is slowly slowing down…and, it’s our wedding anniversary tomorrow, 29 years!

22nd August

From Lezardrieux we headed further up stream to the lock at Pontrieux. The river is beautiful - wonderful houses peep out from place to place, a castle `Roche Jagu’ is perched high up on the wooded cliff, rocks, woods and so many egrets! This is the place where Paul and I first spotted an egret - perhaps it’s global warming or perhaps we have just got `an eye’ for them now because we seem to see them everywhere - even on the marsh at Walton just before we left!
On Saturday, Frankie and I wandered into town. There was a kind of market come car boot sale along all the streets - including the inevitable Peruvian pipe players with their stalls too [ a bit like the egrets, they are just everywhere!] It was fascinating! Frankie returned proudly clutching her Le Crueset set of 4 pans which she got for only 15 Euros - A BARGAIN!!! We also did the French supermarket thing and now the boat is full of yummie things - not good for the bikini!?!?
On Sunday we left the lock at 9a.m. and headed back down the river - beautifully bright and sunny, but a cool wind - and, of course, a Webb wind, right on the nose!!! We turned into the Moisie Passage - interesting navigation!? You have to keep a white tower and a little chapel on the hill behind it, in transit astern [or,pretend to and use the chart plotter for a much clearer picture of where we are!]
We then went round Les Haut, an enormous light house. The sea was quite lumpy in places as we had wind against the tide. The tidal range was 12 metres [top Spring] so we had planned to go with the tide which pushed us along at up to 9knots over the ground whilst only showing 4.5 knot through the water - not a tide to have against you!!
We arrived at the entrance to Ploumanach at low water and had to drift about for an hour or so until there was enough water to get in. Frankie, Dom and I had a bit of a swim before we entered the harbour. It’s a lovely spot. You enter the harbour over a sill so that all the boats stay afloat, but then moor up to these dumbell shaped buoys which are in long trots with boats tied up fore and aft like daisy chains!!!
We shall stay here for a day or two - it’s wet, grey and windy. Perfect Scrabble weather!!

18th August

Today started so many times!! Confused? Well….it first started at 3a.m. when Frankie and Juliet came in from the hot spots of St Peter Port; then it started again when we all got up to say goodbye to Juliet who had a taxi booked to the airport at 5a.m.; then it started again when Frankie came back in the dinghy from taking Juliet ashore; then it started again at 7.30 when we all got up to get ready for the off!!
So, by 10a.m we were sorted and ready to take the tide down the coast of Guernsey . It was a lovely warm day, but hazy. In fact by using the radar, we were able to work out that the visibility was 1.5 miles. We actually were able to sail for most of the day - makes a change! We passed the Roches Douvres, leaving them quite close to port - such an inhospitable set of islands and rocks - would not like to be there in bad weather. After that it wasn’t long before the French coast came into sight.
We made our landfall at Isles de Brehat and headed straight up the river to Lezardrieux. Nous sommes arrivee!! Dom took his first steps on foreign shores and so is committed to return trips by ferry and visits
to French vets!!
We headed for the first restaurant we could find - namely Hotel du Port - where we had a delicious meal. So rich, and beautifully presented e.g. carrots were served mashed, formed in a ring and layered with slices of apple [to accompany pork]; also the fruit salad was in a Christmas cracker type thing made from greaseproof paper, the fruit was wrapped in the middle with brown sugar and cinnamon, this had been warmed through in the oven [enough to scorch the paper] then served by splitting open the `cracker’ and putting ice cream in. I like good ideas like that which are simple but effective.
And so life in France begins…off to get croissants for breakfast….!!

Friday 12th August

two weeks on board...where has the time gone?! We are now in Guernsey and trying to slow down, to remember that this is not just a holiday but a way of life!! Give us time...we'll get there! The Channel Islands are delightful, as always. We have just come back into St Peter Port today [and are enjoying their free wireless internet access] after 2 nights anchored off Herm's `Shell Beach' and one very bumpy night in `Derrible Bay' near Sark - and yes it was very derrible there!

The crew, Frankie and her friend Juliet, are well settled in the fore cabin. Much whispering and giggling!?! We feel very lucky to have aboard 2 twenty year olds who are happy to spend hours threading shells to make necklaces!!

The boat mascot, Dom [our Springer Spaniel], has really got his sea legs. He always knew that sailing would be hard work...but not for him!! He spends sailing time lying on his bed on the cockpit floor, snoring!! It's a dog's life, eh?!

We have enjoyed meeting up with our friends, Kate and Dave, who are here too. Their daughter, Adrienne, is 20 months old and just adorable! She in turn has fallen in love with Dom!! Also Dave's parents, Simon and Judy, who always give us such a warm welcome in Guernsey. We all went to Herm together - the weather was perfect and we lazed, swam and dug!!!

As for the sailing...the webb-wind has followed us as usual. Yes, you really can come all the way from Walton to Guernsey with a head wind!! We may have turned the engine off for at least 4 hours in the whole trip!! Just what are theses big white flapping things for anyway?!?

Thanks for so many e-mails!! Will be replying, but in the meantime this news will keep you up to date with `The Adventure' so far...