6th October

In beautiful sunshine, we left Royan and sailed up the Gironde to Mortagne. Once again we passed the caves and the church at Talmon, but seen this time by water rather than by road. When we arrived at Mortagne, we felt quite at home as we crawled up the creek, between muddy banks on a rising tide. Then we were able to lock into the marina - a lovely quiet spot at this time of year. The village is in two parts - the lower part is the marina and some restaurant bars. Behind this, is a wall of white cliffs, which are floodlit at night. It is then a steep climb into the main part of the village with the usual assortment of shops etc. We explored by bike, visiting the church, a hermitage in the cliff and along the marshes. I was fascinated by a huge flat, straw lined circle mounted on top of a post - I tramped across the field for a closer look, and it was a nesting platform for storks! But none were to be seen so it must be the wrong time of year.
Another bike ride the next day took us through vineyards, fields of dried up sunflowers alive with gold finches, woods and open country side with huge `buzzards’[we think] circling and perching on tree tops. Finally we stopped at the little stall near the marina where a lovely couple sell locally produced wines and melons from their own plot - both of which were added to our meal that evening, of course.